MEETING
with
pastry chef at fouquet’s, Paris, and founder of cinq sens
His cakes have the flavor of childhood. Her grandmother’s spritzs that you dip in a Viennese coffee, her mother’s marbled pastries, the Christmas log, the soft pear cake, the vanilla cake, the travel cakes that breathe simplicity and the pleasure of a shared moment. He saw his mother making cakes on weekends for the whole family – there were four children at home – and he regularly put his hand to the dough, always turning in the kitchen. Seeing his attraction to the subject, she entrusted him with the spatula, then bought him a book to learn how to make cakes.
My style is convivial gourmet food, homemade, and a good big generous cake.
His Cinq Sens pastry shop in the 15th arrondissement and a laboratory in Pantin, allow him to give free rein to his creation to offer a totally new and immersive experience where each visit to the store is a journey in a luxurious and warm setting, without losing your bearings. There is no extravagance here, the basic recipes are revisited to mark out the itinerary of gourmets: citrus baba, apricot combawas tart, chocolate hazelnut tart, ready-to-eat choux presented in a box like macaroons, chocolate marble, pistachio softness… His dreamy air and his broad smile give the impression that he is working while having fun; with a musical background accompanying his days, the master of the sweet arts talks to his cakes.
From a short one-week internship at Christophe’s pastry shop in Forbach, Moselle, at the age of 12, the local institution run by Christophe Greff, Nicolas knows what he wants to do. With his diploma in hand, he went on to obtain a CAP in pastry making, a complementary qualification in confectionery and chocolate making, and a BTM in pastry making. All the ingredients were there to make him the perfect pastry chef. Christophe Greff who had taken him under his wing for five years pushed him out. Reluctantly, the young man looks for a place, and believe it or not, he finds in three weeks a place as a clerk at Fauchon’s by chance during a dinner with his teacher. The young pastry chef is gaining in stature and integrating the great houses at lightning speed. At the Crillon as sous chef to Jérôme Chaucesse, then assistant to Benoît Couvrand at Cyril Lignac’s pastry shop. For his first position as pastry chef, he opened the restaurant La Réserve with chef Jérôme Banctel, with two MICHELIN stars in his sights. Bet won. He signs at Fouquet’s in 2019 and is simultaneously launching his company Cinq Sens, in partnership with William Assouline, his partner.
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