An inspiration around the hive
In the Petite Loge, half kitchen, half cellar with brick colors, located in the basement on the same floor as the cellar, the chef concentrates on the recipe he must compose for Lafont. He hesitates and reviews his ingredients. The carrot for its sweetness, a condiment of egg yolk based on beeswax, flower jelly, an infusion of resin reminiscent of fir tree honey, and a honey with character, it’s all there, but how to translate a work of inspiration around the hive in a recipe? The smells of the hive, propolis, pollen, wax, flowers…
The choice of a mono-floral honey
To realize this exercise of style, the cook decides to choose a honey of mono floral character, which can be a honey of acacia, a regional honey more typified that one collects on small valleys where one finds wild roses and hawthorns, or, a honey of wooded chestnut tree and very powerful. “This is my starting point because honey expresses the terroir, the region and the season. If the year was rainy or on the contrary very hot, we will not have the same product at all “. While the cook is busy, the wax embalms the whole building with its insistent, almost liturgical perfume.
We have these rather powerful smells of fir resin, which remind us of fir honey candies, the bees love it
The recipe in pictures
Seasonality obliges, the new carrot is chosen as the main product, it is roasted in an oil of fir tree to remind the wooden beehives that we put on to disinfect them. To concentrate the flavors, a carrot juice scented with flowers, herbs, anything that can be foraged. The combination works very well with the carrot and the smokiness of the wax. Then, the chef works on a flower infusion jelly inspired by pollen because it is unusable and tasteless once it is transported and dried.
A quick trip to the meadow to find wild thyme flowers, rosemary flowers and elderberry buds. “So much for balance, to which we need to add a note of acidity and refresh the flower with a yogurt-like fermentation that I make myself, in which I incorporate honey and lemon juice to boost the acidity.” A roll of rhubarb to bring the note of acidic vegetable which comes to cut.
Finally, the egg poached at low temperature in the cooled beeswax that is broken like a mold to recover the egg yolk, beaten; it is creamy and brings to the palate this rounder and more nappant note, exhaling the scents of wax and propolis of the smokehouse. A waxed carrot after all!
Anthony Bonnet
A cook with a touch of gardening, raised in the pastures of the Monts du Lyonnais, Anthony Bonnet is a lover of the land, the products and their beautiful stories. A starred chef since 2012, he revisits, season after season, the taste of his childhood memories to make vegetable dishes rich in emotion grow under the glass roof of Cour des Loges.