Gentlemen, the suit is the ideal garment to highlight your figure and support your presence… if you wear it correctly. Because it’s a fact, most men tend to wear suits that are way too big for them. How to wear the suit jacket ? Which model to choose? Lafont takes stock of this historic and essential garment.
THE SUIT JACKET MADE FOR YOU
Choosing a suit jacket means looking at all the details that make a difference. This is to guide you in choosing the size. We leave it to you to choose the style.
The shoulder of the suit
This is the most complex part of the garment. And the one that cannot be retouched afterwards. The shoulder is therefore the determining element in the choice of your jacket. Neither too narrow nor too wide, the jacket can be worn with style when the shoulder seam is aligned with the rounding of the shoulder.
Choose a suit jacket that matches your body type: if you are a big guy, go for a Neapolitan shoulder jacket (without padding). Contrary to the thinner physiques which will be able to opt for a classic shoulder or even more padded.
The bottom of the sleeve
Easy to touch up, the bottom of the sleeve should come above the wrist, just below the head of the ulna (the slightly protruding wrist bone).
Each morphology has its own bending. Too wide, it can give the impression that you are wearing a jacket too big for you. On the other hand, a suit jacket that is too tight can make you look cramped. When choosing your jacket, choose a fit that will highlight the curve of your bust, without being too close to the body. To help you choose, look at yourself in the mirror: from the front, the closed jacket should not be wrinkled. From the back, the jacket should not mark your buttocks.
The right length for your suit jacket
According to tradition, the jacket should stop at the thumbnail when your arms are at your side. From now on, the codes are more flexible, but certain rules must be respected: the jacket must cover at least 2/3 of the posterior. This new proportion, introduced by Hedi Slimane at Dior Homme in 2001, allows to lengthen the silhouette for a dynamic look.
THE BEAUTY IS IN THE DETAILS
You have the jacket. Very good. Now you need to know how to wear it. Here, it’s no longer a question of alterations, but of accessorization and allure.
The buttoning of the jacket
Closed or open jacket, which buttons? A real headache for novices. It is customary to button one’s jacket (except for the last button, which is never, ever buttoned), when standing. And that you open the jacket when you sit down. The influence of fashion now allows working people to go to work with an open jacket for more relaxation. But it is important to note that the silhouette is enhanced when the jacket is closed!
Hidden under the jacket, the shirt must be well positioned at the cuffs and collar. On the cuff side, we leave 0.5cm to 1.5cm beyond the shirt of the jacket, to create a border that immediately gives allure. At the collar level, the collar of the jacket must perfectly fit the collar of the shirt. So, whether it is closed with a tie or open, we take care to tuck the tip of the shirt collar into the jacket.
The elegance of sobriety
To “catch the eye” in a suit, no need for extravagance. It’s not the outfit that dresses you, it’s you that dresses the outfit. Capitalize on a nice cut, a sober and elegant color (black, navy, anthracite) and a quality material. And accessorize to your liking: tie, bow tie, clutch, belt, cufflinks… And take care of the hair and the beard if there is one. You are perfect!
MISTAKES TO AVOID
- Choose a suit that is too wide or too narrow at the shoulders (the seams are aligned with the shoulder)
- Wear suit sleeves that are too long or too short (the wrist bone is taken as a reference)
- Wear a jacket that is not tight enough or too tight (the jacket should be able to close and should fit snugly)
- Choosing a jacket that is too short or too long
- Button all the buttons on the jacket (always leave the last button open)
- Wrong positioning of the shirt collar or the bottom sleeves of the shirt (it’s all in the details)
- Choose an eye-catching suit (you should be the eye-catcher, not your outfit)
- Match socks to shoes (match socks to suit)
We give you a little help, follow our size guide to find the perfect jacket for you!