An unreasonable signature in the mouth
Sébastien Vauxion always starts from the fundamentals, the product. Considering wine as a dessert ingredient in its own right, in the same way as a very bitter chocolate that is not very flattering in its raw state and that must be worked in a certain way, sweetening it a little, giving it a little fat with the egg yolk, lightness with the egg white and a touch of cream for smoothness, the alchemist chef modifies the wine into food. We still need to find the bridge. A few simmers are necessary to evaporate the alcohol but without cooking it to keep the quintessence of the aromas, it is at this precise moment that the texture changes into jelly, leading to a modification of the tastes.
The idea is to get the best out of the product and not to distort it when you know the immense work that goes into it.
The recipe in pictures
The dehydrated grapes are immersed for four days in the raisined wine, thus regaining their natural element – the circle is completed – to which are then added some fresh grapes. The preparation is laid out on a puff pastry of which the chef has the secret, topped with a diplomatic herb cream, made of a mixture of mint, lemon balm, chervil, parsley and coriander, lightly vanilla flavored to bring roundness with a whipped cream.
Then the work of goldsmith begins, the dressing. A large, simple white plate serves as a showcase. In the center, Sébastien Vauxion assembles each element with a sure gesture, revealing an ephemeral sculpture, fragile like a bird nestled in the heart of a plant nest.
Grape used from Domaine BLARD & FILS, 706 route de Chapareillan, 73800 Les Marches.
Sébastien Vauxion
In 2018, Sebastien Vauxion is the first pastry chef in the world to be awarded a star by the Red Guide. One year later, he won his second star, placing him in the firmament of international pastry.